Cotton suiting

It is a dense cotton woven to keep the line of the cut. Most often it is twill or gabardine: a fine diagonal rib shows on the surface, and the cloth looks smooth and neat.

Unlike thin shirting or dress cotton, it is not see-through and does not fall in soft folds. Pieces lie flat, and trouser creases and skirt pleats stay put.

Wool suiting is warmer, creases less and recovers on a hanger. It is good for autumn and winter but needs gentle care.

Cotton feels cooler on the body, so it suits spring, summer and warm autumn days. It creases more, but you can wash it at home and press it with a hot iron. For everyday trousers it is often the more practical choice.

At 1.4 to 1.5 m wide: straight trousers 1.2 to 1.5 m, a skirt 0.7 to 1 m, a jacket 1.5 to 2 m, a sheath dress 1 to 1.3 m. Add about 5 % for shrinkage.

To work it out more exactly, see the articles on trousers, a skirt and a jacket.

Before cutting, wash and press the fabric the way you will wash the finished garment; more in «Pre-shrinking». Sew with an 80 to 90 needle and overlock the edges: dense cotton frays.

Wash at 30 to 40 °C. Press slightly damp, on the wrong side: an iron can leave shiny marks on dense cloth. Wash dark fabrics separately the first time.

A jacket or skirt hangs better with a lining. Which one to take is in «How to choose a lining».