How to choose a lining

A lining hides seams and insulation, protects the main fabric from rubbing and sweat, and lets the garment slide over what is beneath. Lined wool does not itch, and a lined skirt does not cling to tights.

It also helps a garment keep its shape: unlined jackets and coats stretch out sooner.

Viscose: breathes, has no static and feels good. The best choice for wool coats, jackets and skirts. More on the fabric in the article «Viscose».

Cupro: a man-made fibre from cotton cellulose, very soft and silky. Pricier, but one of the nicest linings.

Acetate: shiny, slips well, cheaper than viscose, but creases and breathes less.

Polyester: strong, cheap and nearly crease-free, but does not breathe and builds static. Fine for jackets and outerwear.

Cotton: for summer garments and children’s clothes, where breathing matters more than slip.

A wool coat or jacket: viscose or cupro, with a smooth shiny lining in the sleeves so they slip on easily. A winter coat gets insulation under the lining.

A skirt or dress: thin viscose. Summer garments: cotton or batiste, often no lining at all. For stretch garments take a knit lining that stretches.

The lining is chosen to match the main fabric or in a deliberate contrast, as in the photo above. It should be lighter and thinner than the main fabric.

Lining usually takes 20 to 40 cm less than the main fabric: a jacket 1 to 1.5 m, a knee-length coat 2 to 2.5 m, a straight skirt 0.6 to 0.8 m. More in the articles on coats and jackets.

A viscose lining can shrink, so decatise it like the main fabric.