How to cut checked fabric

First find out whether the check is even. Fold the fabric along the diagonal of a check: if the stripes meet, the check is the same in both directions and pieces can be laid either way.

If the stripes do not meet or the pattern has a direction (a wide stripe on one side only), the check is uneven. Then all pieces are laid the same way, as on a napped fabric, and you need more extra.

Choose the main, boldest stripe. Place it at the centre front and centre back, and keep the main horizontal stripe off the bust and hip lines: it makes them look wider.

Mark the lines of the check on the pattern at the hem, waist and armholes. These marks on neighbouring pieces must fall on the same stripe.

Cut in a single layer, right side up: that way you see where the pattern falls. Lay the second half of a piece by flipping the pattern and matching it to the one already cut.

Side seams are matched by the stripes at the hem, the centre seam and opening at the centre of a check, the sleeve to the front at the front armhole notch.

Pieces that are hard to match are cut on the bias: the yoke, collar, cuffs, pockets. The check becomes diamonds and looks like a deliberate accent.

Pin the seams at every main stripe or baste them. The layers shift, so a walking foot helps.

Before cutting, decatise the fabric: shrinking can skew the check a little, and it is better for that to happen before sewing.

Add 10 % for a small check, 15 to 20 % for a medium one, and for a large check one more check height per piece length. An uneven check takes even more.

Amounts for different garments are in the articles on coats, jackets, skirts, dresses and shirts. For checked fabric itself see «Tartan».