Cotton for a dress

Cotton is natural: it is not hot in summer heat, it absorbs moisture and does not stick to the body. It does not build up static and rarely irritates skin, so it is used for children’s dresses too.

Cotton is easy to sew even for beginners: it does not slide under the presser foot, takes the iron well and does not fray at the edges the way viscose or chiffon does.

Chintz or calico: thin, light, almost always printed. The classic of vintage summer dresses, sundresses and house dresses.

Poplin: smooth, a little denser, with a slight sheen. It keeps its shape, so it suits shirt dresses and fitted styles.

Batiste: very fine and soft, may be see-through. For light dresses and blouses, often with a lining or a slip.

Sateen: a smooth face with a silky sheen, soft and drapey. For dresses you can wear to a party. Muslin and crinkle cotton look creased from the start and need no ironing: for sundresses and beach dresses.

Rayon challis looks like cotton but is usually made of viscose: it is softer and more fluid still.

Cotton may shrink up to 5 % at the first wash. Wash and iron the fabric the way you will wash the dress, so it shrinks now. More in «Pre-shrinking».

If the print has a direction (flowers growing upwards, a striped border), cut every piece the same way up and add 10 to 15 %. Match gingham at the side seams.

Light, thin cotton may show through in the sun. Make a slip or a lining of batiste or viscose to go under it.