Viscose

Viscose was invented at the end of the 19th century as a cheaper substitute for silk. It is made from cellulose, mostly from wood: the cellulose is dissolved and fine threads are drawn from the solution.

So viscose is not a synthetic like polyester, but a man-made fibre from a natural raw material. It feels cool and smooth, breathes and absorbs moisture well. Newer kinds of the same fibre are called modal and lyocell: they are stronger and shrink less.

Pros: light, breathable, free of static, drapes beautifully and keeps bright colours. It is not hot in summer.

Cons: it creases more than cotton and gets weaker when wet, so it must not be wrung. It can shrink at the first wash, sometimes noticeably.

Plain viscose: a simple light plain-weave cloth for summer dresses, shirts and pyjamas.

Challis, crepe, viscose satin: softer and more fluid, for draped dresses, blouses and circle skirts.

Viscose is often blended with polyester, elastane or linen: such cloth creases less or gives a little.

Viscose slips, so it is easier to cut on paper or on a cotton sheet, pinning the pieces more often. Use sharp scissors and a fine needle.

Viscose edges fray: finish them with an overlocker, a zigzag or French seams. How much fabric a dress, blouse or skirt takes is in the articles on dresses, shirts and skirts.

Before cutting, wash the viscose the way you will wash the garment, and dry it: it shrinks now rather than in the dress.

Wash at 30 °C on a gentle cycle or by hand, do not wring, dry flat or on a hanger. Iron slightly damp, inside out, at a medium setting.