Corduroy

Corduroy is a pile fabric whose pile is gathered into ribs, called wales, running along the piece. It is mostly made of cotton, sometimes with elastane, so it gives a little.

Corduroy is warm, strong and soft, which is why autumn and winter clothes are made of it. In the light the ribs shimmer and the colour looks deeper.

Fine wale (needlecord): thin and soft, for shirts, dresses and children’s clothes.

Medium wale: the most versatile, for trousers, skirts and jackets.

Wide wale: bold and chunky, for trousers and jackets in a 70s style.

Corduroy pile has a direction. All pieces are cut the same way, or they will look like different shades. With the pile running up the colour looks richer. That takes 10 to 15 % extra.

Pin in the seam allowances, sew with a longer stitch and, if you have one, a walking foot: layers of corduroy shift. How much fabric trousers or a jacket take is covered separately.

Iron corduroy on the wrong side, face down on a terry towel, so the pile is not crushed. Or just steam it without touching it with the iron.

Before cutting, decatise the fabric as described in the article «Decatising». Wash finished garments inside out at 30 to 40 °C without a hard spin.