Twill and gabardine

Twill is not a material but a way of weaving. Each next thread shifts by one, and the cloth shows slanted ribs running on the diagonal.

Compared with a plain weave, where threads simply alternate, twill is softer, drapes better, is denser and creases less. Wool, cotton and blends all come as twill.

Cotton twill: for trousers, chinos, shirt jackets and workwear. Denim, which jeans are made of, is a cotton twill too.

Wool twill: the classic for suits, trousers and skirts. Herringbone is a «broken» twill whose diagonal changes direction.

Gabardine is a very dense twill with a sharp, steep rib. It was invented at the end of the 19th century as a cloth that keeps out rain and wind, and raincoats are still made of it.

Gabardine comes in wool and cotton. It holds its shape, hardly creases and keeps a trouser crease, which makes it one of the best fabrics for trousers, suits and coats.

Look at the cloth in the light: twill shows slanted ribs. On the wrong side they are fainter or run the other way.

Gabardine has fine, dense, steep ribs, and the cloth is smooth and springy. Ordinary twill has a gentler, softer rib.

Iron wool twill and gabardine through a cloth: direct contact with the iron makes the rib shine. Decatise the cloth before cutting.

Cotton twill can be washed at 30 to 40 °C. How much fabric a garment takes is in the articles on trousers and jackets.